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How to Choose the Best Vitamin C Serum – Your Ascorbic Acid Checklist!

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Vitamin C Serum Checklist: How to find the best Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C Serums.

In this video i’m going to be arming you with all  the information you need to go forth and find an   epic vitamin c serum that’s going to do all these  incredible things for your skin! i’m going to run   expect to get out of it, what to look for when   purchasing a vitamin c serum and definitely what  to avoid – because it is a

Minefield out there.   it is like the vitamin c road is full of potholes  hello everybody! i am julia, i am obsessed with  skincare and particularly obsessed with vitamin c.   i’ve been using it for years, my skin loves it. i  have gotten so many benefits from this ingredient,   it’s really really incredible when you choose 

The right one. when you choose one that has been   that cares about the results that you’re   science that we have behind this ingredient.   that is the key to getting the most out of vitamin  c. i’m going to be taking you through a checklist   of what to look out for and what to avoid when  it comes to finding the right vitamin

C serum   and in part two of this series i am going to be  talking about the particular products that i have   used time and time again that i stand by that i  absolutely love and have really transformed my   skin. so what can vitamin c do for your skin? in  this video i’m going to be talking primarily about   the active

Form of vitamin c which is ascorbic  acid. this is in its active bioavailable form,   the form that it needs to be in for your skin  to identify it and use it. it’s the form that   it’s found naturally in our bodies. vitamin c  it’s one of the only ingredients that has been  shown by science by a decade’s worth of study  

It’s pretty impressive these are firstly it   is a collagen booster it plays a really really  important role in the complicated process of   our bodies or our skin making more collagen it’s  actually the primary water-soluble antioxidant   within our skin within our tissue and it does  decline with age secondly it’s an epic

Antioxidant   vitamin c gets in there it neutralizes these   damage in your skin by donating an electron   them and they can no longer do any damage so   it’s a really really potent effective antioxidant  when you layer a vitamin c serum under your   sunscreen it can increase the photo protection of  your sunscreen

So it just really boosts that uv   protection it is definitely not a replacement  for sunscreen it does not work that way   it’s just that those two together are a great  pairing when you layer on your vitamin c   sunscreen on top that is just a match made in   heaven in terms of antioxidant protection and uv  protection

Thirdly it is a skin brightener it’s   able to even out your skin tone so any little dark  marks like sunspots or pigmentation spots from   uv damage or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation  those dark marks that are left behind after you   have like a blemish or a breakout that heals or  even a wound that heals it’s able to go

In and   brighten those areas and just keep everything even  so for dark spots like pigmentation or sunspots   tyrosinase the vitamin c works by inhibiting   that enzyme tyrosinase so that the dark spots  and areas of pigmentation can’t actually form   effectively so now we’ve established we want this  ingredient in our

Skincare routine what do we need   to look for before we spend our hard-earned cash  on a vitamin c serum when it comes to choosing a   vitamin c serum i am super fussy i have tried so  so many over the years a lot of them i have not   seen results from there are a small handful that  have been really really impressive so as you

Might   already know vitamin c is an extremely unstable  molecule it’s one of those ingredients that when   it’s done well it is super effective but it is  really really difficult to formulate with so a lot   of brands choose to stay away from the active form  of vitamin c and they choose to formulate with a   derivative

Because it’s a lot easier there’s also  a lot of brands out there that do use the active   form but unfortunately are using the hype around  this ingredient they’re wanting to put the term   vitamin c on the front of the box they’re wanting  to appear in all those search results for ascorbic   game they’re not giving it to us in the

Way   that the science is showing its most effective  i get really peeved when i see a company doing   aren’t checked off if they’re just if they’re not  met within the formula that vitamin c is not going   to be stable by the time you get it home it’s not  going to be doing anything for you on your skin so   purchasing

Or using a vitamin c serum the  active form of vitamin c ascorbic acid is   c needs to be in the form of ascorbic acid   to be bioavailable to the skin meaning your skin  can identify and use it so anything that is a   derivative or a different form of vitamin c needs  to be converted into ascorbic acid in the skin  

C the active form is my personal preference   of visible results in the skin with this form   of vitamin c when it’s formulated effectively  there are just some people out there who cannot   tolerate ascorbic acid no matter how gentle it  is or how low the percentage is or some people   that just prefer not to use it it can

Be a bit  of a pain in the butt you’ve got to think about   where you’re keeping it how you’re storing it  it’s best refrigerated you can’t stockpile it you   know you kind of need to purchase it as you are  going to be using it and i can totally see how a   derivative might be the way to go for some people  for some people’s

Skin or just their purchasing   preferences the second thing to check off when it  comes to purchasing a vitamin c is the packaging   from the second it can it’s going to start   it’s not going to wait until it’s on your skin   to do that it can’t hold back its antioxidant  ability it’s just it’s just going for it so  

Vitamin c for as long as possible to suspend   that antioxidant activity from starting until it’s  within your skin that is that is what you want   to be looking for you want it to be as active as  possible when it hits your skin and the packaging   plays a massive part because exposure to air light  and heat can start introducing

More free radicals   into the formula and it and the vitamin c is just  going to use up all of its antioxidant ability   on neutralizing those free radicals within the jar  before it even gets onto your face pump packaging   is amazing um opaque packaging or that tinted  sort of uv protected glass is great anything  

That’s going to minimize the amount of air and  light that can get in i should also remind you   guys to be storing your vitamin c in the fridge  it’s a cool dark environment that is going to   basically prolong that stability if your vitamin  c serum is becoming a dark orange to rusty kind of   brown color then at that point

It is oxidized its  antioxidant properties have all been used up and   it’s not going to offer any benefits to your skin  at that point the next factor that you need to be   checking off is the percentage of ascorbic acid  within the formula so all of the science and all   the evidence we have behind this ingredient gives 

Us a range of between five to twenty percent where   this ingredient is effective and can benefit the  skin within this range there are a few different   different points within that range so at the   lower end sort of between five and ten percent  it has the benefits of antioxidant ability and   also the skin brightening

The skin tone evening  abilities if you really want to take advantage   of the collagen boosting elements of vitamin c you  definitely want to be looking at the higher end of   the scale around 15 to 20 if you can tolerate  it so just because you increase the amount of   vitamin c within a product doesn’t mean your skin 

Can absorb it so all of the studies that we have   maxes out its absorption of ascorbic acid   at 20 anything more than that your skin is not  going to absorb it it’s just going to hang around   and cause more irritation and reactivity on your  skin personally i like to stick to a 15 to 20   vitamin c serum because i want

All three of those  amazing magic abilities that vitamin c can offer   but it really depends on your individual skin’s  needs and your preferences the next thing that   shown us that the optimal ph range for ascorbic   and also the absorption of it into our skin   is at a ph of 3.5 or below now this is where a  lot

Of brands fall short this is because a low ph   major challenges with a vitamin c serum   is getting the product through that uppermost  layer of the skin called the stratum corneum   so this layer is basically kind of a gridlock  or like a a brick wall of dead skin cells and   the glue that holds them together so it’s a

Real  challenge to get anything water-based through this   level like through this layer of the skin because  that layer of the skin is full of lipids and it’s   a hydrophobic layer so it repels water it likes  oil so anything oily or lipid-based is able to   pass through that layer way way way more easily  than anything

That’s water-based so the challenge   here for the cosmetic formulator is to get that  vitamin c at a certain at a ph low enough to be   able to sort of disrupt that barrier and for it to  pass through into the living cells underneath the   stratum corneum so a lot of feedback to a lot  of mainstream brands is you know that

This is   irritating this caused a reaction there’s a lot  of refunds there’s a lot of returns um there’s   a lot of people that just can’t tolerate ascorbic  acid so these are all challenges that brands have   to deal with when they’re formulating a vitamin  c serum and so many of them just put this in the   too hard

Basket and and end up formulating with  the ph that’s closer to the skin’s natural ph   it’s less irritating you’re not going to get that  feedback from customers but unfortunately it means   that that product is probably going to be oxidized  by the time it reaches the customer’s face   and even if it’s not oxidized the ph

Is completely  wrong to be able to deliver the ascorbic acid   through that barrier into the living skin cells  let me know if you are interested in seeing a   them but today i just want to focus on the ones   that are worth your time and money the products  i’m going to be mentioning today are all at the   correct

Ph so the next requirement for a vitamin  c and this is more of a personal preference   a water-based serum so for the skin to be   able to use it it has to be dissolved it has to be  solubilized water contains oxygen and so once you   dissolve this ingredient in water the oxidation  process begins so some brands are getting

Around   this by basically creating a suspension of vitamin  c powder throughout a base that’s like silicone or   avoiding using water in their product which is   a great idea in theory because it means that that  powder remains stable because it’s not touching   water it’s not going to dissolve and it’s not  going to

Start that oxidation process but the   problem with this and this is more a personal  preference is that at some point that vitamin   c has to dissolve to be effective it’s depending  on that to dissolve with your natural skin’s water   content i am skeptical as to how much of that  powder is actually dissolving and penetrating

And   getting to where it needs to in the skin i get it  in theory um but but personally i’ve not seen the   best results from formulas like this so yes it’s  ticking off the stability issues but then in terms   of penetration and absorption it’s i think it’s  failing in those areas it’s just not for me and   i have

I’m done with that i have completely moved  on so the next thing to consider when purchasing a   vitamin c serum is the other ingredients it has  been compounded with so research shows us that   other antioxidants can effectively preserve the  antioxidant ability of ascorbic acid in a formula   and this is great news because it

Means that we  can basically suspend that antioxidant activity   until it hits our skin vitamin e and fluorulic  acid specifically are really really effective at   doing this when it’s when they’re formulated with  a vitamin c and this is referred to as the holy   trinity um if you’re a skincare nerd you will know  what i’m

Talking about it’s sort of the holy it’s   the holy trinity of antioxidants vitamin c vitamin  e and ferulic acid and you’ll see a number of well   formulated vitamin c’s on the market that are  called ce for rolex obviously the famous one is   from skinceuticals they pioneered a lot of this  research most of the products i’m

Going to be   referring to later on do have this holy trinity  but just because a product doesn’t contain   vitamin e and probiolic acid doesn’t mean it’s not  effective it’s just definitely something that can   product the last thing to consider before you buy   a vitamin c serum is whether or not it has any  fragrant

Components in it a lot of people can   tolerate fragrance on a daily basis until they  introduce something that is a very active potent   skincare ingredient like vitamin c alpha hydroxy  or beta hydroxy acids or a retinoid i personally   vitamin c combined with fragrant components now i   just want to make it clear i’m

Not anti-fragrance  across the board in terms of skin care i think   and you enjoy it in your skincare routine   go for it it’s just my preference that brands  give us the choice because when we’re talking   about a really high percentages of actives at a  low ph that can be a recipe for disaster and it’s   going to

Be a challenge for a lot of people’s skin  just to adapt to that ingredient and to be able   to tolerate that ingredient without the added  pressure of a fragrant component in there some   people are just able to use fragrance in every  step of their routine no matter what and their   skin is completely fine but for those of us

That  can’t deal with such a potent product alongside   fragrance i just really appreciate the choice to  be able to add that in if i want and to avoid it   when i don’t want thank you so much for watching  and for joining me for part one of this vitamin c   series please join me for part two which will  be coming soon where

I delve into the specific   product recommendations when it comes to vitamin  c serum i hope you found this video helpful please   interested in skincare content and just drop   a comment say hi let me know what you thought  of the video and i will see you guys soon bye

Transcribed from video
How to Choose the Best Vitamin C Serum – Your Ascorbic Acid Checklist! By Julia Pratt